Rishikesh to Chopta and Tungnath

A Himalayan Odyssey

Embarking on a journey from the spiritual heart of Rishikesh to the serene heights of Chopta and the divine Tungnath, this journey had more than what I planned (more on that later).

Itinerary Overview

Day	Activity	Highlights
Day 1 (22/04/26)	Train to Dehradun, Rental bike from DDN to Rishikesh	Scenic drive through forests, splendid Aarti
Day 2 (23/04/26)	Ride to Chopta throught kedarnath Highway	Endless roads with cooling final stretch
Day 3 (24/04/26)	Trek to Tungnath and Chandrashila	Highest Shiva temple, panoramic views
Day 4 (25/04/26)	Deoriatal trek and Ride back to Rishikesh	Serene, quiet lake
Day 5 (26/04/26)	Ride back to Dehradun and train to home	Secluded and energy brimming rishikesh walks

Day 1: Reaching The Yoga Capital of the World

After reaching the Dehradun railway station I let out and headed to bike rental, I use First Gear bike rental here as he’s closest and has Honda 350 Highness, I travelled for this from Haridwar or that’d have been shorter. After inspection and fueling I let my faithful Nokia 6.1 Plus out who’s sole job is to work as GPS now. The approach was straight and I didn’t opt for the scenic route since it was already 1351 hours, more highway dust and I reached Hosteller Bam Rishikesh(66 KMs), Neelkanth by about 1630 hours. All that was left today was rest and relax to hone up for big ride next morning.

As I jumped in my bed post home-made lunch met this amazing guy on next bed in same dorm, we discussed about the vicinity and by 1816(tad late) started to a secluded sunset spot from where we can view whole of dimly-lit Rishikesh, it’s called Jhilmil Gufa. The receptionist affirmed we can view sunset yet. We were tempted to go to Jhilmil gufa with all the enthusiasm this guy held. We climbed with bike all the way some 400 meters before gufa and our bike turned a sharp edge which was the indication this was the final motorable point. We parked out bike and went to the cave, it was surreal there was a hole at the topmost point from which the light peeked in. Came back and it was already post sunset, we rode the bike back some 4 KMs. On the way we caught the same point we earmarked and soaked out eyes with surreal nighscape of Rishikesh. Post that we rode in complete darkness with only low beam(Can’t toggle without screwdriver on H’ness). Leaving geo tagged photos here.

The Spot

Rishikesh Nightscape

The day was not over yet the aarti at Neelkanth Mahadev temple was yet to unfold, we reached there by 1945 hours and after few mins of waiting there was a loud thrum of vibrations going through our eardrums, this was the powerful combination of damru, dholak and ghanta ringing and vibrating through our entire body the whole aarti was such a granduer and aligned us to the supreme. The doors were open for darshan for a whim. The story of Neelkanth temple is inscribed on the outer walls of inner temple compound. We had a nice little walk post our home-made dinner and foosball session.

Fast Asleep

Accomodation

Hosteller Bam Rishikesh Neelkanth

Day 1 Ride Review

Journey	KMs	Total Time
Dehradun to Rishikesh	66.07	02:26:30

Day 2: The Big Ride Day

I had to ride 200+KMs today. I was rushing to temple compount by 0540 hrs having prasad and jal with me for abhishek. Had a wonderful darshan where pandit ji told me about the swayam bhu shivling and I offered my respects to the same. Remember to watch in middle of the place where the jal essentially goes to that’s the old self realised shivlingam. This temple has a beautiful message in philosophical terms as well. It encodes the act of holding inner poison (mental turbulence) in pure awareness without reaction, like Samudra Manthan. Shiva as Neelkanth signifies containment, not expression - localizing disturbance in witness-consciousness until it dissolves into non-dual clarity. Basically turning the vritti to sakshi(observer) until it collapses and what remains is awareness.

0641 hrs Heading to Chopta begins, bid goodbye to Pradeep and again Nokia 6.1 Plus’s expert navigation is on the mounts. Quickly exited Rishikesh and merged with Badrinath road it was pleasant weather until sun beams up and it’s the March heat, good fact, most of the ride is along the river, Ganga being along the ride I kept throttling until I reached Devprayag at 0855 hrs I was watching this confluence for the first time. The enormous power it holds and the views from top are just commendable.

Devprayag

The confluence of Alaknanda and Bhagirathi Rivers. I was just guessing the geography when an uncle came and asked beta yhi laga do and faciliated me to park, offered to keep my helmet. I took a small can from him and went downstairs(it was some significant steps) paid my respects, collected the jal and came back, had a glass of lemon soda despite uncle telling me you can go it’s not mandatory to drink. Onward I go, it’s Alaknanda whom I’m riding alongside now. There were massive step walls being erected to counter landslides, more so because this is on of the major routes of the state, the Char Dhaam Yatra. The ride was smooth even in hot gusts of air, i just adorned a jacket so I don’t get burns. Hamlets, bazaars, bridges and field kept passing by. That’s the beauty of ride, environments keep changing so often. I entered Srinagar at 1122 hrs and the splendid views of stable temple in midst of Alaknanda River. The Dhari Devi Temple, reached there at 1200 hrs. Visited here on return, this temple has a legend associated to it as well.

Dhari Devi

Passed few other beings until I crossed a tunnel to reach Rudraprayag at 1301 hrs. Paid my respects to the confluence of Alaknanda and Mandakini Rivers. It was a joy ride along Mandakini river with verdant valley views to feast. Rode few KMs this way until I got to a point Chunni Bend from where the route to Kedarnath went along Mandakini river on left and I kept straight(slight right) on my way to Chopta, from here it was almost no traffic, some blind turns and the wind turned to be thin and cold. Fueled up on a petrol pump and here are the pump views.

Petrol Pump Views

Enjoying the ride I reached The Bunker House cafe in no time where I met a guy who was returning after covering Kedarnath doli yatra. Had some snacks in cafe, talked to guide who didn’t agreed to take me so I planned solo and reached Chopta some ~10 KMs ahead and found 2 guys there to stay with just at the trailhead. Had some dinner available nearby, put batteries to charge, recharged a fellow’s intenet connection and slept after a walk in which I saw multiple quarrels, these driver guys were pathetic, just thrashed a fellow driver because he took some passenger from their area. Never have seen such violent pahadis before. These were some kind of gangsters.

Accomodation

Shared accomodation at trailhead (30.4860, 79.2013)

Day 2 Ride Review

Journey	KMs	Total Time
Neelkanth to Chopta	222.16	10:23:35

Day 3:

The plan for the day was much earlier than I started, I almost got up by my alarm but decided to relax because of long ride y’day. Eventually woke up 0630 hrs and roamed all around just to get a bucket full of hot water. The guys there were just concerned of how much they can get out of us when I asked of hot water he asked me where did I had dinner when I indicated the shop he told “whi se lelo” such pity - not entirely their fault. This was one of a kind travel experience I had and taught me a lot about human psychology. Anyway I got water by drinking tea at that place and exchanging 200 Rs. for a bucket full of simmering water.

Got ready and started to the Tungnath-Chandrashila trail by 0730 hrs. Kedarnath Wildlife Sanctuary

That’s your Trail

Hiked about 10 mins with 2 guys I stayed with, they were funny. I decided to leap ahead since I’ve to visit Chandrashila as well. The trail was paved(cheh futiya) and twiling, twisting and full of meadows. Met a guy whom I met in Bunker house the day before, continued ascend through Ganesha shrine and temple tank to reach Tungnath temple at 0852 hrs continued further so as to have darshan post coming back. The cheh futiya disappeared now and it was all sight & go now. Reached Chandrashila peak at 0930 hrs - 11900 feet(3627m) couple of lads doing good photogaphy with poses and trripods over there, went to a corner to sit alone for sometime and then came back to centre area where some guys thought I was some official and was asking me permission for smoking there. Spend few more moments, paid respects to a mountain temple, offered some prayag jal in same temple and returned back to Tungnath temple in some 23 mins.

Stone temple at Chandrashila

Pandit ji helped me to offer prayag jal to Shivling and told me about the idols in temple. There were Ganesha, Shankaracharya, Shiv-Parwati and other idols. A brass pot caught my attention it was very similar to what I’ve seen in Jageshwar Temple. I recently had a thought about these places of worship, it’s not always about sanctum sanctorum but the surroundings, experiences and the journey both physically and psychologically. Morever in Tungnath, the main temple is before the peak. It signifies that your actions have to be pure before execution, in other words inner discipline before attainment or introspection before enlightenment. The whole place is ethereal just be there and observe.

Tungnath Temple - Highest Shiva temple in the world

I descended back quiet fastly so fast that I had a strange sensation in my chest(perhaps spasm) so I relaxed had a mouthful of cucumber and started back slowly only to reach stay and found out my stuff have been escorted out on a table by owner and my 2 new friends guarding it since it was an hour late of checkout time - 1158 hrs. It literally felt check-OUT.

Check - OUT

I bid farewell to my fine haryanvi friends and stuffed everything in to voyage on my bike to Sari - one of the best rides through the hills. Crossed Bunker house on the way again - navigating from there to buransh stays, someone was coming to escort me up. Reached at 1315 hrs parked bike met the young guy - Mahadevan Randeep, person who can always give you some local knowledge on whatever you may utter. He helped to get my luggage carried up the deoriatal hike way 290m. The stay was perfect, I had a feeling of this stay is something I gonna remember for sometime and indeed I did, the views from the cafe were just panoramic and stone house was built with such care that you find everything where you suppose it to be, they just cropped the window a little but I for sure loved the stay and the people - not a easy job to provide such experience high in the hills, kudos to the couple who had immense faith in mountains(Ask the setup story from owner if you find some time). This was the perfect reset for me - today was complete rest & relax day.

Had a sumptous organic lunch made by Ritik and I slept for a while, went upstairs to the cafe at evening to have a good hot chocolate and soaked in the views for long. Some kids appeared from nowhere. Played Jenga with those peeps and lend them my binocular for viewing their school downhill, chap discovered he can see a lot including market. Had a good time with them and gazed the layered beauty for some more time after which I visited shiva temple just 50m up. Spotted forktail. Had long conversations with priest over there over country, state of affairs, tourists, spirituality and alike. He was a veteran. Came back when it was about to be dark and spent some more time on the porch gazing hills. Had a hearty dinner and talked to other tourists - Ronin a particularly social kid. Slept with all lights off - a scene to behold from window.

Room View

Cafe View

Kids in the Cafe

Shiva Temple - Veteran Baba

Day 3 Resources

Stay - Buransh Stays, Sari : +91 81974 61815

Day 4

Today was day with splendid wake up scenes. I got refreshed just by the scenes from the window. Actually I woke up quite early and seen the day break while I got ready for the Deoriatal Trek. Went to Shiva temple and paid respects. Had the bannnnana(lyrical) I got from a nearby shop y’day and up I move through the trek, it was 0540 hrs.

Had a wonderful hike through the paved trail and had some great sights of barbets, bug eaters and perching birds - warbler and laughingthrush. There was a verdant sight of same Shiva temple I went this morning. Continued my ascend up met some fellow trekkers greeted them and kept moving. It was 0616 hrs and I spotted sun rising behind the opposite hill, stayed for the scene and moved forward post rise.

Shiva Temple - From Chandrashila Trail

Sunrise - From Chandrashila Trail

I reached the splendid taal at 0640 hrs. A complete hour easy hike. The reflections of trees was captivating and I went to the highest point there to take a 360. There was a small shrine on the circumambulation path - paid respects. Went to the mid point of the lake and spent some good 30 mins over there. The yaksha-taal’s reflection was something that is awe-inspiring and forces one to go inward. On the other half spotted a deer and came to starting point. There was this movement of fishes in taal that were going after insects on the surface and there were fishes in pretty big size and good health over there.

Deoria Tal - The Yaksha Tal

Hiking back had a tea and observed a helicopter going to Kedarnath(VT-HHC Read on Binos). Kedarnath and Badrinath are connected via helicopter for a fast and easy darshan. Came back by 0840 hrs, had a good breakfast of poori aloo and onwards I go.

Checked out faciliated by Mahadevan and I revved again, today the destination was Rishikesh. Moving back with mixed experiences and resonant mind. Rode through the day passing same places. It was all highways after a while. Halted for brief at Rudraprayag and Devprayag to get those wide views registered to my memory. Another observation here, that’s a candidate for quote - to overtake is to stay ahead, not just zipping ahead. Had an absolute shocker when bike jolted I calculated and had enough fuel but I wasted more in throttling and ended up stranded for half an hour when a scooter helped me, fueled up more than margins at next fuel station and landed again in the Yoga capital of the world at 1751 hrs.

Checked in to madpackers hostel where my room upgrade was declined and had to park in public parking since property didn’t provided any but their terrace view is breathtaking, the whole rishikesh is situated on a S curve of River Ganga and you can see minor curve from there.

Since it was late, just took a bath and reached Parmarth Ghat for Aarti, it was overcrowded as expected on a Sunday but the experience was devotional, Sunil Shetty and a dignatory from high court was the special guest today for Aarti. Had a long stroll on the lanes afterwards, went to the opposite Janaki Ghat to spend some time alone and soak in Sursari gushes. Moved to hostel back and met a budding DJ there on terrace and spend some night hours discussing about his understanding of spirituality over there.

Day 5

This day started early since I wished to attend morning Ganga Aarti, reached Triveni Ghat only to know it does not happen. Got called by same DJ guy and picked him up, he took me to a great solitude place by the River Ganga. We meditated over there and it was one of my best experiences in Rishikesh, thanks bud. Came back sneaking into some ashram and spend great morning time at Swargashram having tea & bun. The views were amazing again, this city has lot to behold.

Meditativeness Spell

10/10 Bench

Went back to hostel, bid DJ goodbye and packed a bunch clothes to take a ablution, went to Sai Ghat for that and had a good ablution. Onwards, went to Triyambakeshwar temple(13 floors) and view was just amazing. I can see the river bends in greater detail and the white waters and the rapids more clearly. Went to hostel post darshan and started to Dehradun to catch train back to home.

Triyambakeshwar Temple

Fueled up again and chose a more scenic ride through Thano road, enjoyed the slow ride through forest and had lunch at a place surrounded by jungle to reach Dehradun by 1258 hours. Dropped the bike to rental and went to railway station lounge to board train later and reach back home with a greater understanding and long lasting memories.

Odometer - Total

Fuel Economy

Metric	Value
KMs Covered	578
Total Fuel Consumed (L)	17.25
Cost	1631.14
Average	33.50724638
MID Average	37.7

Average - MID

Total Expenses

Total Expenses

Travel Tips

• Best Time to Visit: April to June, September to November
• Permits: No special permits required for Chopta-Tungnath
• Packing Essentials: Warm clothes, sturdy shoes, rain gear
• Health Precautions: Acclimatize to altitude, carry basic medicines

Map of the Route

Conclusion

This trip was a perfect blend of adventure and spirituality. The untouched beauty of the Himalayas leaves you humbled and rejuvenated.

Safe travels and happy trekking!